Navigate / search

I Could Totally Live In Sorrento. (TIK Tour Day 6)

TheInternationalKitchen

A weird thing happens when you travel.

Sometimes you see a place so beautiful, it’s difficult to believe that people actually live there — that it’s not reserved solely for the immortal among us — those with Herculean blood or some other divine privilege. And sometimes you see a place so desolate and deprived of natural beauty, it’s difficult to believe that people actually live there — that’s it’s not reserved solely for those banished into exile for the most heinous of crimes.

And sometimes — sometimes — you discover a place where you can’t help but imagine living yourself.

For me, this is a bit of an anomaly. Since home is wherever the military tells us it is, my immediate family has long-since broken up and abandoned the place that once felt like home the most, and in my soul is a restlessness rendered to those with itchy feet, it’s rare for me to get sappy about a place and picture it as somewhere I might feel content for several years or more, and yet —

It happened in Malaga.

It happened in Napa.

And now it’s happened in Sorrento.

IMG_2578_web

Jessica and Alaina in Sorrento.

So why this city? Why not Positano, with its striking cliffside beauty? Why not New York, with its restaurants and culture and energy? Well. I can’t say for sure, but I’d venture to guess it’s a perfect storm of size, location, climate, and an intangible feeling akin to warm fuzzy socks in winter or the shiver that runs up your spine when you sit down to an al fresco lunch with a great glass of wine and even better friends on a perfect 75-degree day.

You know that shiver — it happens during the moments when you can’t help but smile at your absolute fortune.

IMG_2575_web

We’d stopped in Sorrento on Day 4 for some gelato on our way back to the hotel, and immediately our group knew — this is where we all wanted to spend our free time on our final day of The International Kitchen‘s Women-only-Week Mediterranean Cooking Experience. Splitting cab fare 6 ways made the 45-minute ride from Sant’ Agata mostly affordable, and when we arrived, we immediately sat down to a cappuccino in an open-air diner in the middle of the Piazza Tasso, and I felt it.

Warm, fuzzy winter socks.

IMG_2584_web

Sure, there are a lot of shops catering to tourists — places where you go to buy all things lemon (limoncello, limoncello-flavored candies, and lemon-shaped serving dishes), inexpensive scarves, and those Positano linens at an affordable price. But it wasn’t too posed. Not too touristy. Where the paint is rubbed raw from so many passing fingers, the city’s true patina is allowed to shine.

IMG_2582_web

Sorrento is a small-ish size, with a population of less than 20,000. The city is walkable (filed with scrumptious winding nooks and crannies) and relatively flat, which is surprising considering how it butts against some seaside cliffs and crouches beneath the mountains of the Sorrentine Peninsula. From its main port, it’s easy to get ferries to Naples, Capri, and towns along the Amalfi Coast.

IMG_2576_web

The mild, Mediterranean climate doesn’t hurt its appeal any, either. Imagine everything I loved about Malaga — the Mediterranean breeze, olives, wines, and brilliant colors — combined with the Italian flair for espresso, art, and pasta. Even better, the people there seemed friendly. I didn’t sense an underlying air of annoyance for the tourists, but instead a local pride, as though each business owner and craftsman wanted to tell us, Here! This is what I can do. Let me show you.

And show us, they did.

My friend Alaina, who has a penchant for wandering, wandered us right into a quiet alcove that, during the busy midmorning hours, seemed far too empty to be public. A fuzzy Italian man came rushing through and with hardly a pause, said, “Would you like to see my garden?” Alaina shrugged and fell into step behind him, so Jessica and I followed, half-suspecting we were about to be sold to the Italian mafia as drug runners.

Fortunately, it turned out that he was the owner of a restaurant called I Giardini di Tasso, and it was the entryway to his restaurant through which we’d been wandering. He led us up a wide flight of stairs where we emerged into a large solarium, of sorts, with several tables and a bar. He then led us through to his “garden,” which was a verdant oasis in the middle of the city with dangling vines, gnarly lemon trees, and medieval Roman archways.

IMG_2596_web

We were told those archways were the real deal.

IMG_2598_web

This tourist-friendly attitude is a huge part of what I loved about Sorrento, and should I ever find myself in southern Italy again, I intend on heading back to I Giardini di Tasso to have a meal.

On our last night at the Oasi Olimpia Relais, my glass of wine encouraged me to climb the stairs to the roof.

IMG_2624_web

I’d expected there to be a view.

IMG_2620_web

What I hadn’t expected was the view —

IMG_2623_web

Of the convent on the top of the hill across the way backlit by a firey gold sunset —

IMG_2618_web

Or of both gulfs — one on each side — from the top of this little hotel perched at the crest of the hill.

IMG_2614_web

“The Oasi Olimpia is a very special place,” Richard from The International Kitchen had told me before I left. And while I was sure it would be nice, the way views of Mount Vesuvius and wine on the veranda is nice, I realized that Richard was right from the moment I walked in — this place wasn’t just nice. It was special. The way warm fuzzy socks in winter are special.

If I could change anything about this tour, the list would be small: Perhaps a bit more time at Pompeii, or maybe an entire day on the coast without rushing back to cook — but really, as far as week-long tours go, the pace, tone, and activities on this one were very nearly close to perfect. And now, as winter approaches here in Virginia and I’m wearing those fuzzy socks for real, I find myself perusing through some of The International Kitchen’s other destinations. Greece? Portugal? Turkey? Africa?

Because, really. This wasn’t just a tour — it was an experience. One I’d trust Karen and her team with again and again.

OasiBathrobes_web

It just doesn’t get any more special than bathrobes in the kitchen of a 3-star hotel.

Need to Know:

The International Kitchen
Mediterranean Cooking Experience
Women-Only Week
800-945-8606

Good to Know:

  • If your luggage doesn’t happen to be lost, bring comfortable clothes and shoes for the cooking classes and excursions.
  • Chef Carmen selects the dishes based on skill level and available seasonal ingredients. She’s flexible to suggestions.
  • Be prepared to COOK! There’s plenty of relaxing time on the tour, but the cooking is no joke. You will learn, and you will love it.

Disclosure: My Women’s Only Week Culinary Vacation was provided for review by The International Kitchen. Rest assured, though, that all opinions — as always — are entirely my own.

Katie

Thank you for reading Domestiphobia! Knowing you stopped by totally validates the time I spend here, so leave a comment! I'm also on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and if you want to connect!

Comments

Angie
Reply

Portugal sounds good to me!

Katie
Reply

Me too! Wanna go? :)

Brianna
Reply

Now that’s my kind of vacation. I’m fairly certain I would have feigned losing my passport for a month or three.

Katie
Reply

Why didn’t I think of that??

Colleen Brynn
Reply

I love the idea of what it means to live somewhere, and why a place speaks to us in this way (or not). Maybe you would like to contribute to this feature I have on my blog “I Could Totally Live There”… it’s a really simple interview meant to be quick and fun. This place would be perfect!

Katie
Reply

Ooh! I would love to do that! Though as much as I loved Sorrento and Italy, I’d maybe pick Malaga — or even Ibiza — in Spain for that interview. Would that work?

Andi
Reply

Oh Italy…there is so much to experience. I have not been to any of these areas and am now bugging the hubby about the next Italy trip, we really have a lot of ground to cover. I have glossed over so many places, your trip has really opened up my eyes to other locales – which is one part exciting and one part depressing (so many places to experience in the world). Italy has always been one of my favorite places to visit – I have an affinity for France and French things, but Italy has many of the same things I love about France, plus happy people!

Katie
Reply

Your comment literally made me laugh out loud. And then it made my husband laugh out loud! That last sentence is hilarious — and oh, so true. ;)

roxannelumme
Reply

I’m moved. Really. From the first paragraph you grabbed me and I was IN Sorrento, sharing the feel, spirit and beauty. Thank you for the brief escape. What an amazing tour.

Katie
Reply

Aw, you’re welcome! Now I think you need to go on one yourself. ;)

What Solo Travel Is Really Like. - Domestiphobia
Reply

[…] on Mount Vesuvius, ceramic shopping on the Amalfi Coast, Michelin star dining in Sant’ Agata, clothes shopping in Sorrento — and our nights resting peacefully in a beautiful 4-star hotel with a view overlooking the […]

Diana
Reply

I agree with you….love, love, love Sorrento….I guess because it feels like the most real city on the Amalfi Coast – – yet – – it is ON the Amalfi Coast! Glad you enjoyed….

Katie
Reply

YES! Such a fabulous city. I guess I should’ve done better research about what the Amalfi Coast is, though — I was thinking it was only the south side of the peninsula (Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, etc.), but now you have me thinking it includes the north side as well? Either way, I could definitely live there. :)

Jessica (Barcelona Blonde)
Reply

Wow, those sunset views are spectacular! I’ve never been to Sorrento, but I have had that feeling of being completely able to live in a place that you describe so well. It seems to happen to me in big cities, like Berlin and London.

Katie
Reply

I have never been to Berlin or London, so I should definitely give them a try! I actually speak enough German to get around, so something tells me I’d have fun in Berlin. :)

Diana
Reply

yes! You are TOTALLY correct…it is not on the coast….I guess I just consider anything in that area “Amalfi” – – – even Capri….which is an island all by itself…ha, ha, ha….still….it is a great town….

Don't be shy... tell me what you think!