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Red, Red, Rocks.

You know that feeling — that feeling you would get in a certain place as a kid — that made it seem as though it were filled with magic and wonder and that it was somehow much bigger, really, than it actually was?

Grandma’s house was not just Grandma’s house, but a cozy cottage that smelled of Grandpa’s spicy pipe tobacco and Grandma’s famous pumpkin bars and where handfuls of Werther’s Originals could be snatched from the old crystal dish as I ran through the arched kitchen doorway to splay across the soft, brown shag living room carpet.  The kitchen floors were beautiful, speckled brown and orange and green and I’d wait, sometimes, in rare moments of patient composure, for the bird to pop out of the coo coo clock to indicate the hour.  The basement was scary and filled with adventure.  Boxes of old toys and musty don’t-touch-thats and the home’s only shower but that was okay because baths were a novelty at Grandma’s house.  I wove yarn tissue box covers and baked peanut butter pies and picked raspberries in the garden and chased squirrels from the bird feeders.  These things I did at grandma’s house, which wasn’t just a house, but a world.  I’d rub my cheek against Grandpa’s rough stubble and snuggle up to his warm flannel shirt.  He used to tap his rings to his own tinny tune on the steering wheel when he drove as I slid around on the worn leather seats.  His truck had a square orange pillow I liked to squeeze.

But then.

But then I grew.  And the house became a house.  An old one with ugly linoleum floors and creaky steps and I had to wash my hair in the sink and barely reach to touch the top of the archway as I passed beneath, the coo coo bird mocking each slow passing hour.  And the magic wasn’t just lost for me, but lost for them.  And then Grandpa was gone, and now, with just Grandma, it feels not like a house but a trap.  Because I want more for her, you know, than lonely last years.  I don’t know what happened to that faded orange pillow.

Time changes things, it’s true, and not always for the worse but sometimes for the better — though even the better, sometimes, can feel worse if you know what I mean.

Take, for example, the Garden of the Gods near Colorado Springs.

Garden of the Gods

Stunning red rock sprung from unearthly ground against a backdrop of towering Rockies.

My family used to go there when I was still a kid and we were still a family.

I remember it being vast.  Rugged.  We couldn’t just drive to everything we wanted to see — we hiked.  Of course, some of these memories could just be small worlds made big in the mind of a child, but on our most recent trip to Colorado, I saw that still it had changed.  More roads.  Easier access.  More people.  Less… magic.

On the one hand, simplified access to this free and natural wonder is fantastic.  People who might never have bothered can now behold, but sometimes I think.  I think those who mightn’t bother if access were more difficult are those who throw the trash.  Those who scream and shout.  Those who just want to go, go, go and not stop, for a second, to see if the magic is still there.

Wide, paved paths.

So tempting to leave the trail…

Kissing camels.

Fortunately, I was with Justin’s family.  They came out to visit while we were staying with my mom to say goodbye before he left for Afghanistan and, despite my disappointment with the throngs of people with whom we had to share the Red Rocks, exploring the park and the nearby town of Manitou Springs with them was a wonderful way to spend the day.

Gard family.  There’s only 547 of us.  From left to right: Hannah (Justin’s sister), Andrew (Justin’s brother), Becca (Justin’s sister), Ashley (Justin’s sister — are we sensing a pattern?), Jack (Justin’s nephew), Jon (Ashley’s husband), Me, Justin, Justin’s mom and dad.  (Thanks, Aunt Lori for taking the photo!)

Travel tip: Explore with fun people who wear bright shoes.  Seriously.  They’re way better than boring people with boring shoes.

Tip: Travel in packs. Other tourists will get scared and you’ll have the whole place to yourselves.

Tip: If you’re going to climb, don’t photograph the evidence.

Uhh…

Climbing?  We’re not climbing.  (This is Brad.  Remember Becca and Brad from our trip to Spain?)

Pegg!  (Sign: “If you are not a technical climber using proper gear and a permit, stay on the sidewalk!”)  Seriously.  “Progress” makes the park safer and less fun.

Balance Rock Garden of the Gods

The Gard Men are RIPPED. (Photo by Hannah Gard.)

Even little Jack was a champ.

Late lunch in the adorable town of Manitou Springs was the perfect way to relax after the park.

It turns out the improvements made to Garden of the Gods over the years are what made it possible for us to see it as a family.

And in the end, I guess that’s not such a bad thing.

After all, time does change things.

It always will.

My family has grown exponentially.  It laughs.  It plays.  I miss them sometimes.

And the future, to me, doesn’t look so bad.

See our tour of the Coors Brewery HERE and a chalk art festival in downtown Denver HERE plus the best hot dog ever right HERE.

And I Traveled Just A Few Steps, At Most, To See The World.

It’s funny.

I spend all of this time daydreaming about travel.  About where I would be if I could be anywhere other than here.

And then, out of nowhere, I discover this whole universe that’s been sitting outside my back door for the past 5 1/2 years, and I never even saw it.

Like literally.  It’s the Universe.

All it took was a couple of solo glasses of wine, a little bit feeling sorry for myself, a broken electric dog fence, and a chance look up.

The metaphor, this whole time, was in my own back yard.

Look up, my friends, instead of down.  Look up, or you might miss it.

And There Was No Alcohol Involved. I Swear.

There inevitably comes a time during every trip when I get… antsy.

know — it’s not enough that I get antsy when I’m not traveling.  No.  I also get antsy when I am traveling.  And while I don’t always act on it, I often feel that I need some kind of change.  Some kind of drastic purchase or body modification in order to commemorate the trip.

After leaving San Diego, I had an itch.  And since I wasn’t having any promiscuous sex, I knew exactly what it was.

“Let’s get tattoos!” I suggested to 2 of my long-lost loves, Stacy and Becs, over coffee in Austin one morning.

Stacy and I used to work together on Fort Bragg, and Becs was one of my hot-sauce makin’ employers in Costa Rica.  Somehow, via the twisting roads we like to call Fate and my own sheer good fortune, they both ended up living in Texas — San Antonio and Austin respectively, and only a couple of hours apart.

I was feeling extra comatose, which was horrific because I only had one day to spend with Bec.

So they took me to Austin Java in order to drug me back into consciousness.

Austin Java

“Hellooo… are you listening?  I said tattoos.”

Once they realized I was actually awake, the caffeine having worked its way through my capillaries and into my alertness and pleasure sensor receptacles (it’s all very sciency), the momentum snowballed.

“No tattoos,” Bec said.  “But there’s a piercing I’ve been wanting to get for a while.”

What?  Awesome.  Let’s go.

A quick check with the barista, who was overloaded with ink and holes and obviously an expert on the subject, and we were on our way.

Diablo Rojo

Welcome to Diablo Rojo.  We totally belong here.

Okay, Bec — Time to pick your poison.

So many choices…

Dainty and demure?

Statement tribal?

Large and in charge?

I’ll admit — I have no clue where most of these are supposed to go.

Fortunately, the expert piercer from New Zealand knew exactly what she was doing.

“This isn’t going to hurt… any more than sticking a metal needle through nerves and cartilage.”

These boots mean business.

Whenever you get a piercing, you have to get “the talk” on how the place sterilizes its needles and how to properly care for your new punctured body part.  If they don’t give you that talk, you should probably sober up immediately and get the f*ck outta there.

She’s still IN!

Wanna guess what she got?

…anyone?

Sterilizing the surface…

Just relax…

It’s no worse than a pap smear… it’s no worse than a pap smear…

Ta da!

“Hey, Devil — my eyes are up HERE.”

Anyway, she’s pulling. It. Off.

I, however, as the queen of now-cliché piercings and tattoos (yes, I have a navel piercing circa 1998 and a “tramp stamp” circa 2000), decided to hold off until I know what I really want.

I did make an impulse purchase at the coffee shop, though — and it was slightly more expensive than a couple of grande, non-fat chai lattes (though not by much):

Mike Johnston Painting "Beach Houses"

“Beach Houses,” painted on a piece of scrap wood, by local artist and elementary school art teacher, Mike Johnston.

I think I love it — nails and all.

 

 

The Hotel California Ain’t Got Nothin’ On the Hotel del Coronado.

In case you’re worried (which I’m thinking you’re probably not), I’m working on the mother of all instructional posts so that you, too, can build your very own closet organizer out of plumbing fixtures.

Because, you know, I’m pretty sure this is the kind of stuff that keeps you up at night.

It does for me.

In the meantime, Let me tell you a little more about my time in San Diego.

As you can tell from my ah-maz-ing view from a balcony at the Marriott Marquis & Marina, the city itself does not actually sit directly beside the Pacific Ocean.

View From Mariott Marquis & Marina Balcony San Diego

Wait.  That’s looking directly down.  Let’s tilt her up a little.

View From Mariott Marquis & Marina Balcony San Diego

There.  If you follow my Facebook page, this shot might look familiar.

The water behind the American flag is actually a bay, which is protected from the rough oceanic elements by the spit of land you see beyond, known as Coronado.

Some people call Coronado an island, which gives my inner geoscience student a veritable eye twitch.  It’s not an island.  It’s technically a peninsula.  The main part you see above is the widest — over a mile across — while further south (beyond the bridge in the photo), it narrows down to a small strip that eventually connects back with the main California coast just north of Mexico.  So technically you could cross over to Coronado and walk to Tijuana, making this… not an island.

UPDATE: A marketing representative from the Hotel del Coronado (known to locals as the “Hotel Del,” according to Dennis) actually read this post on my blog (whoa!) and submitted the following comment: “To give you a bit of history, Coronado used to be an island … at high tide. The skinny strip of land now called Silver Strand that connects Coronado to Imperial Beach used to be a lot smaller. During high tide it would become submerged (thus turning Coronado into a true island). It was later filled in with sand, turning it into the peninsula we know today.”  Thanks for the clarification!  That definitely explains why it’s often referred to as “Coronado Island.”

The last time I was in San Diego, I took the Coronado bridge across the bay and rode directly to the beach.  This time, my friend Angie and I opted for a ferry, since we didn’t have a car.  There are a couple of ferry options, including the Coronado Ferry and the ferry operated by the Marriott.  The Coronado Ferry is cheaper, costing $4.25 (I think) each way for an adult, while the Marriott ferry is $6.00 each way.  We still opted for the Marriott ferry since it left from nearby and ran every half hour.  Anyone can take it — you don’t have to be staying at the hotel.

The captain was exceedingly helpful, and the ride only lasted about 10 minutes (if that).

Marriott Ferry San Diego Coronado
Coronado Bridge

Of course, once we got to Coronado, we realized the Coronado ferry actually drops you a little closer to actual… stuff.

Coronado Marriott Ferry Landing

About half of the fat part of the “island” is occupied by a Naval base.  The other half is a small town with shops, restaurants, pasty tourists, beautiful homes, and tanned Seals (not the kind with flippers).  We decided to walk across the width, just to get a feel of the place and catch a glimpse of the ocean.  If you’re wearing decent shoes, let me just say that a walking tour is the perfect way to appreciate the beauty of this place.

Skyline views…

Gorgeous homes…

Flowers and fruits to smell along the way…

Cozy niches to wine and dine…

Wine Styles Coronado

And finally, at long last, the Pacific.

The beach here was fairly crowded.  Of course, we had to walk through the famous Hotel del Coronado and couldn’t help but gawk at the extravagant wood moldings and opulence dripping from the giant crystal chandelier.

Hotel del Coronado

I’m pretty sure I flipped out over this old school cage elevator.

Unfortunately, my iPhone could do nothing to capture the sheer size of the place.  If you make it to Coronado, the hotel is definitely worth a look.  We hiked back a different way from where we came.  If you find yourself walking, take care when crossing some of the busier roads.  We thought we were avoiding the hustle of tourism and commuters by walking through quiet neighborhood side streets.  Unfortunately, those led to a major thoroughfare near the bridge, which is the only way by vehicle to cross the bay.

Honestly, I’m surprised we didn’t end up tiny smears on the side of the road.

But hey.

As you can tell from the photos, there are worse places to die.

 

So You Want to Eat and Drink in San Diego? You Should Probably Start Here.

So in my last post, I intimated — no, I bragged — that I had some of the best food and drinks in San Diego.

Now.  I want you to read that as, “I thoroughly enjoyed the food and drinks I had at these places in San Diego” and not, “This is the absolute best stuff you could possibly get in San Diego” because frankly, I don’t know if it was the best in San Diego because I was only in San Diego for 3 days.

All I know is that what I consumed at the following choice establishments was phenomenal, as was the service and overall atmosphere.

*DISCLAIMER: Of course I inadvertently left my nice DSLR camera in my hotel room, along with my sunscreen, apparently, for the majority of my excursions, so you’ll have to settle for the dark, blurry images provided by my iPhone.

First up?

My friend Suzy, a lovely lady I used to work with during my cubicle days at Fort Bragg and who happened to be traveling to San Diego around the same time, was adamant about finding us a “craft cocktail” bar.

Suzy Craft and Commerce

Read the rest of this gem…

Travel Tip #472: How To Look Like You Know What You’re Doing. Kind Of.

I have said it before, and I’ll say it again.

Traveling alone, while completely thrilling in a scary-adrenaline-pumping-whoa-I-just-had-sex-without-a-condom kind of way, is best when punctuated with familiar faces.  Even better when those faces happen to be local.

See, when you have access to a local, and I mean more than a quick information exchange on an airplane or subway though that’s certainly helpful too, you have access to the heart of a place.  The keys to the Camaro.  The ear to its secrets.

And in San Diego, not only did I meet up with long-lost non-local friends, but I met a friend I’d never actually met — an online friend and someone whose words I’ve been reading for over two years, so really it seemed like we’d never not met because honesty, if you haven’t figured it out by now, is kind of hard for a blogger to avoid.

So it’s like we’re in each others’ heads.

Dennis Hong is the founder of Musings on Life and Love, as well as a new relationship advice site called Lemon Vibe, and a regular contributor to Cracked.com and Dear Wendy and probably another one or two or seven that I’m forgetting.  He’s a molecular biologist-turned-high-school-teacher or something along those lines, the American kind of Asian, argumentative, wicked smart, swing dancer, lover of scotch and unwitting connoisseur of saki, has a lovely girlfriend named Melissa, and is an exceedingly talented and prolific writer.

Dennis Hong

See?  Must mean I know him like the back of my hand.

Which doesn’t really mean much, when I think about it, because I doubt I could pick my hand out in a lineup.

Anyway.

Like I said.  While exploring an unknown place on your own can be an incredible, mind opening experience, consulting with a local is, more often than not, the most efficient way to dig around its guts.

He showed me one of the best places for food.

Pulled Pork Sandwich at Searsucker's

(More on this place HERE.)

He told me one of the best places for drinks.

Wimbledon Fizz from Craft and Commerce

(More on this place HERE.)

He showed me his mad swing dancing skills at a place whose surface screamed I’m just a pub! by day but hiked up its poodle skirt by night.

Swing Dancing at Henry's Pub

Henry’s Pub

He showed me saki.  And made me drink it.

Saki San Diego

Uhh… Don’t remember the name of this restaurant.

And he left me with advice of other places to check out, like Kansas City Barbecue, the locale where Goose sings Great Balls of Fire to his kids and the lovely Meg Ryan in Top Gun:

Kansas City Barbecue

And the Top of the Hyatt, which is a FREE — yes I said FREE — elevator excursion to arguably the best view in San Diego.

Hyatt San Diego

It took me no less than 3 elevator rides from the Hyatt’s impressive lobby to get into the correct one — the one that would take me to the top.

Hyatt Elevator

This is me.  Bored in an elevator.  You can’t tell, but I was really excited to get in the right one.

Hyatt San Diego Elevator

Are we there, yet?

Top of the Hyatt

Oh, yes.  We are most certainly there.

Top of the Hyatt
Top of the Hyatt
Top of the Hyatt
Top of the Hyatt

There’s also a bar up there called — get this — Top of the Hyatt.  I didn’t get a drink or even go inside because the place is über fancy which made my jean shorts feel a little Daisy Duke but not as sexy so I skipped it, but here’s my take:  If you’re in San Diego, go to the top of the Hyatt (the floor).  If you’re in San Diego and have money to spend on drinks and are wearing something nicer than Jean Shorts and don’t smell like Saki, go to the Top of the Hyatt (the bar).  Even if they’re extra pricey (they probably are) and not that great (they’re probably not), the euphoric view more than makes up for it.

Since I have an intense aversion to travel research, I never would have known this existed if it weren’t for Dennis.  It was kind of awesome, completely free, and kind of awesome.

So.

Find yourself a local.

And if your local happens to be a swing dancin’ Asian, consider yourself extra lucky.

Lesson… Not Learned, Apparently.

When I travel, I continuously make one of the biggest, most common, most ludicrous mistakes over and over and over again.

Almost every time.

You’d think that I’d learn.  You’d think I’d realize the pattern.  But no.  I do it every time, never expecting.  Never thinking it will happen to me.  Doing the same thing, expecting different results.

Insanity.

Kids, this is my #1 travel tip of all time.

Scratch that.

It’s my #1 tip of all time, and it applies whether you’re traveling or not.

Wear sunscreen.

Yes, I just ripped off Mary Schmich.

But I still feel it’s important.

My arms, they’re en fuego.

And my ego?

Well.

That burns a little, too.

Here, It’s Impossible to Get SAD.

I have this feeling.

LION Coffee

I’m sitting here, on a city street corner in a room surrounded by glass, and a salty breath of ocean breeze has found its way inside.  It kissed my cheek and made me smile and reminded me of where I am.

I have a giant cup filled with the best chai latte I’ve ever had, which doesn’t hurt.

My mood is impeccable and I feel, maybe for the first time since Justin left, like I can breathe again.

I’m in a coffee shop, of course, and I realize now more than ever that this atmosphere is not conducive to writing.  Especially this particular coffee shop, with its eclectic music, colorful street traffic, and sailor-mouthed old man sitting across the room.

The staff here at LION Coffee are friendly, the windows are open, and I know I’d come here again and again if I lived in this town.  They’d know my name, and they’d know my drink, and I think I could probably be happy.

Until I’d want to move again.

Next time, I wouldn’t order the breakfast burrito.

LION Coffee breakfast burrito

With its cheese, potatoes, and bacon, it wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t awesome.  The spicy salsa made the difference.

I would, however, order the acai bowl with yogurt, fruit, and granola.  It looks incredible.

And the coffee?  I could drink this all day.  I could drink this all day and develop chronic shakes and totally not care because it’s just. That. Good.

And San Diego?

(That’s where I am, by the way.)

I could learn to love San Diego.  I’ve been here before, and I’m happy to see that it sill makes me smile.  With its people and its restaurants and its ocean and its perfect, perfect weather, it’s hard to be unhappy.

In fact, I don’t think I could ever get SAD.

And that, I think, is exactly what I need.

San Diego
Henry's Pub San Diego
Weather San Diego

I have this feeling.

And I kind of want to keep it.

So You Think You Can’t Travel? (Part 1: The Why)

I’ll admit it.  This is something I should’ve written a long, long time ago.  Two years ago, mayhaps, around the time I quit my well paid office gig for a 2 month bout of Costa Rican hot sauce cookery during my first ever existential crisis.

I’d like to think it was my last, but let’s be realistic.  I’m a writer.

If you’re new here and have no idea what I’m talking about, you might want to check out this.  Or this.  Or just go to my travel section under “Costa Rica” and read everything there.

The short of it is that I realized that I was doing nothing. My life was slipping away, day by day, and I’d somehow hopped on this windowless, nonstop express train, streaming movies and midnight visits to the dining car the only distractions from the mundane ride, and lethargic retirement its final destination.

Melodramatic, maybe, but it’s how I felt.

I’ve written before on the top 5 regrets of the dying, and while they’re each insightful in their own right, the one that speaks loudest to me — the one that makes me think, YES! Where, along the shaky path between youth and adulthood, do we lose this? — is, “I wish I’d had the courage to live a life true to myself — not the life others expected of me.”

Yet, there I was.  Sitting in a gray office cubicle, wondering how I’d gotten there.  Had I been asleep?  What next?  Kids?  As a military spouse, I could hardly count on climbing the corporate ladder, so kids were the next logical step.

And that’s when I knew.

I had to get off this train.

I’m fairly certain that I’m not the only one who’s felt that way.  Who’s felt that I somehow missed the announcement when the conductor said, “If you want to be an adult, make your own choices, and live your own life, get off my train.  If you want to do what’s expected, what your parents want you to do, what society expects you to do, and live your life in a sea of ‘shoulds,’ then by all means, stay on board.”  It never even occurred to me that there might be an exit.  As a kid, people were always telling me to just be myself.  They said I can do whatever I want to do — be whatever I want to be.  Days were spent honing creativity and imagination.  It was okay to laugh and be loud and just live in the moment.

But then?

Then.

Then we’re supposed to grow up.  And apparently growing up means forgetting everything they told us about being ourselves and instead we need to be what they want us to be:  Demure.  Put together.  Successful.

Don't Grow Up

Apparently fun and finger painting had gone the way of Santa Clause and the Easter Bunny and consequenceless cupcake binges.

Growing up, it seems, means accumulating student loan and automobile debt if you’re smart, and loads of credit card debt if you’re not.  It means bills and payments on some things you need and many you don’t.  For the majority of us, it means going to work for someone we hardly respect, sleepwalking through our days just so they’ll end, and being too exhausted at night from under stimulation to manage much more than a Lean Cuisine and a few hours in front of the tube.

Then we do it again.

Tomorrow, we think.  Tomorrow will be different.  We’ll go for that run.  We’ll cook that amazing meal.  We’ll start that diet.  We’ll plan that vacation.

But we don’t.

Because it’s easier, sometimes, to sleepwalk through life than to sit back and examine our own state of being.  We reach certain preconceived milestones and assume we’re supposed to be content.

The problem?

We’re not.

Because milestones are fake.

They exist so we can see if we “measure up” with our fellow humans — do we make enough money?  Do we drive a nice car?  Are we married?  Are our kids great at sports?

It takes the acknowledgement of dying regrets to realize that none of that matters.  At least, it doesn’t matter if you’re doing it so others won’t criticize the life you’ve chosen.

That logic is useless because

here is the deepest secret nobody knows
here is the root of the root
and the bud of the bud
and the sky of the sky of a tree called life;
(E.E. Cummings)

They’ll criticize it anyway.

They will.  Your neighbors will talk about the grass you forgot to water or your sofa with the tear or the way your dogs bark at every passerby.

The truth is, you will never be good enough for the standards of another.  So until you start caring only about the standards you set for yourself, your need for approval will never be sated.

So.

What does this have to do with travel?

Too many of us want to embark on an adventure, but we don’t.  We create excuses.  We fear the unknown.

For me, at least, my decision to quit my “normal” job came with a price.  While I was fortunate enough to have a supportive husband, some select supportive friends, and the savings to make quitting fiscally possible, it became very clear that my decision was somehow threatening to others.  Many of the uninvited warnings were incredulous, unsupportive, and often cruel.

I cried.

A lot.

How could they say these things about me?  I’m lazy.  I’m a quitter.  I’m going to get my husband in trouble with the military and drag us into the poor house.  Oh, and I’m probably going to get raped and robbed while I travel, so I better just be prepared.

Best of luck.

But you know?

This process helped.  It helped Justin and I weed out the people who matter and the people who don’t.  The people who encourage and lift us up, and the people whose happiness, it seems, is dependent on our failures.

Why don’t more people — people who have the desire — travel long-term or more often?

Because.

It’s hard.

It forces us to admit that we’re caught in a trap of our own design.

We sometimes have to spend time away from people we love.

We might have to sacrifice some modern comforts in order to afford it.

People will criticize.

It’s hard.

But think.  Why do some people gather the courage to jump off the train?

Because, my friends… they can never really understand the why until they’ve experienced it themselves.